You’ll try any wine, anything except Chardonnay.
You don’t like Chardonnay, in fact, you hate it!
All the Chardonnays you’ve tried are horrible, dreadful, really just not very good.
That's not fair, I say. Chardonnay is the Queen of Grapes. Le Montrachet, a Burgundian Chardonnay, inspired Alexandre Dumas to declare that one must drink this wine "on bended knee, with head bared."
I’m not going to argue with Dumas — that sounds pretty worthwhile.
I will not give up on what I call “ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay) Wine Drinkers, for Chardonnay is one of the most important, elegant, and versatile white wine grapes in the world.
It may feel like shopping for jeans
The perfect fit is out there (somewhere!), and it takes a bit of work to find the right one, but when you do, oh isn’t life good!
Chardonnay (like jeans) can vary greatly, depending on the climate in which the grapes are grown and the stylistic choices made in the cellar. From crisp, steely Chablis, to rich, buttery California Chardonnay, there is wide variation, so much so that I am adamant I can find a Chardonnay for each ABC Wine Drinker.
(Full disclosure: Till now, most of my wine industry experience has been on the production side, at a winery which, at one point, offered five different Chardonnays. I have had some experience defending this variety …. a variety which really shouldn’t need my defense at all.)
Expressive and uniquely elegant
Chardonnay, like Pinot Noir, is a grape capable of communicating its origins. With its first home in Burgundy, Chardonnay is expressive of terroir, the unique features of the vineyard or village in which the wine is produced. Chardonnay is uniquely elegant (hence, the Dumas quote), producing heavenly wines in Burgundy and the premier sparkling Blanc de Blancs in Champagne.
From France, Chardonnay has spread and is now grown around the world: Italy, United States, Chile, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia, to name a few.
Climate makes a difference
So, my ABC friend, there is a world of Chardonnay to explore, literally. Climate strongly influences the character of the wine, and its effects are readily apparent in Chardonnay. Depending on where the grapes are grown, Chardonnay exhibits flavors ranging from tart lemon and apple to ripe, tropical pineapple.
When produced in cooler climates, Chardonnay leans toward the former. Cool temperatures preserve the grape’s natural acidity. Flavors are reminiscent of citrus and apple, sometimes peach, often floral. In these regions, Chardonnay reflects the nature of the soil on which it was grown, with hints of minerality or chalk. Crisp and refreshing, these wines are elegant and perfectly food-friendly. You’ve got to eat, so why not pair your meal with a glass of wine?
In warmer climates, Chardonnay leans ripe and tropical - pineapple (fresh, canned or roasted - can you tell the difference?), guava, mango. Oh hey, it’s a luau in my glass! These Chardonnays tend to be richer and have a rounder mouthfeel.
Barrel or tank?
You may have heard the terms “oaked” and “unoaked” to described wine. Sounds a bit jargon-y, so I’ll clear that up ASAP.
Oaked - the wine has seen some time in oak barrel
Unoaked - the wine has NOT seen any time in oak barrel
Chardonnay, in many parts of the world, is “oaked.” A winemaker may elect to use barrels for a number of reasons, not least of which may be to add richness and impart length on the palate.
The winemaker doesn’t get away easy. There are even more decisions to make once it has been decided that barrels are to be used. If you are a real wine geek you may want to start learning about barrels and the regions which produce them and why the wood is different… maybe another time. For now, stick to why barrel choice is important, specifically as it relates to Chardonnay.
First, American or French oak? American oak generally has a stronger character, whereas French oak is more delicate. The winemaker also considers whether or not the barrel has been used before. I use the analogy of a teabag (and I’ve used this analogy many times so please bear with me if you’ve talked to me before about this before). You can reuse a tea bag so ma